How I Lost 22 lbs (10 kg) in Italy - With the Help of a Local Bar

Losing weight in Italy - the irony of quiet consistency and the help of a local bar

Italy is famously the place you go to indulge. It is the global capital of pasta, pizza, gelato, and lovely aperitivo - the slow-cooked, decadent pursuit of la dolce vita. When you tell people you are spending a solo season in Florence, they expect you to return with a suitcase full of leather goods and a few extra pounds of joy.

Instead, I lost 22 pounds (10 kg) in the land of carbs and by the help of a bar. The irony is complete.

When I arrived for this round of solo season in September 2025 at the age of 56, I didn't need a culinary escape. My nervous system was exhausted from years of carrying the weight of a heavy, client-dependent agency model. I was carrying the heavy cortisol of other people's emergencies, a female narcissist in a work relation, and the everyday drama of an unaligned business structure when you live by trading hours for income. I didn't need indulgence; I needed a complete biochemical and structural recalibration.

And I understood that eating like I was on vacation would not benefit either my health or my economy.

Walking off the weight of the past

I did not plan on losing weight, and there was no punishing bootcamp or frantic fitness regime. I carried overweight for many years and I was under the impression it would stay like that since it was so hard to get rid of.

The "secret" turned out to be wonderfully boring and profoundly peaceful. It was simply me and Sid (my daughter's Italian Greyhound, the travel size of greyhounds), walking 10 to 12 kilometers every single day. And it all began as so many other things in Italy - with coffee.

However, we did not start with 10 km; that was something that peacefully evolved, silently, by extending the route little by little every week. We walked along the Arno river, over the ancient cobblestones of the Oltrarno, and up into the cypress-lined hills surrounding the city. Little by little we extended the route, mostly out of curiosity of where a narrow alley led.

And I got stronger.

Paired with a clean, Keto-focused lifestyle, my body got energized and it simply began to let go of what it no longer needed to carry. It wasn’t a struggle; I was finally giving my body the slow, unhurried rhythm it required to heal.

Also, in the Keto way of eating, the craving for sweets goes silent, making it possible to navigate ancient streets filled with the scent of slow-cooked food, freshly baked pastries, and mountains of gelato. I still see it all, I feel it, and I indulge it in my soul - but with Keto I get the power to choose and to see the difference between living in Florence and a vacation in Florence. When my husband arrives for vacation, we enjoy it all. The rest of the time I fuel myself with all the Keto-friendly fresh food Florence's lovely markets offer on a daily basis.

How an Italian bar became a part of my weight loss

A massive part of my weight loss journey actually took place at one of the most genuine bars in Florence. Every day, after working in the mornings, Sid and I have lunch at home and then put on our walking gear and head down to Gusta Bar at Via Maggio in the Oltrarno area (cross the river at Ponte Vecchio or Ponte Santa Trinita) for an energizing caffè macchiato.

But I never take it to go, I always have my coffee "al bar" - standing at the counter. The Italian coffee culture is best enjoyed right there, because this is where Italian life truly takes place. Asking for a takeaway would completely ruin the magic. You pay for the coffee, you order it, you get it served, and you drink it standing at the counter among the other guests. It arrives perfectly tempered and ready to drink. It is a mesmerizing experience - first it goes to your head, then straight to your heart and soul.

This short ritual lasts just a couple of minutes, but it is truly living the ambient Italian lifestyle. At first, you are just another customer. But day by day, as you keep coming back, the smiles become familiar. Suddenly you find yourself doing small chit-chat about all and nothing with the staff and customers, especially when you have a travel-size dog in your arms. It is that everyday social glue that grows into the loveliness of someone truly recognizing you, and you recognizing them. Sid was the main catalyst for this - dogs do something to the Italian people, and an Italian Greyhound is the ultimate social passport where you all become just humans loving dogs.

So, there I was, standing at the counter every day, smelling their lovely paninis made to order, and their famous pizzas from Gusta Pizza across the street, looking at the wonderful Tiramisù in the glass cupboard right next to my coffee. But I just indulged by looking and smelling, knowing the day would come when I would truly enjoy it. And I did. When my husband came to visit in April, we had those lovely pizzas, and I finally ate that wonderful Tiramisù.

The lovely staff at Gusta Bar became like family during this solo season, and those daily coffees fueled the walks that transformed my health.

Eventually, Sid and I built up our stamina until that post-coffee walk became a spectacular 10 to 12-kilometer daily loop. From Gusta Bar, we cross Piazza Santo Spirito to enjoy the true Italian ambiance, then head down to Porta Romana and through the park. We walk up the cypress lined serpentine road to the San Miniato Church, and up behind it to take in the vast views of the mesmerizing olive grove landscape.

From there, we continue to Piazzale Michelangelo, take a round down through the Rose Garden to drink from the fresh water fountain (they are conveniently placed all over Florence so you can easily hydrate), and then wander back along the beautiful and serene Via San Leonardo. Passing Forte Belvedere and Giardino Bardini, we finally emerge back into the city at Piazza Santa Felicita.

And then suddenly on a day in May I was 22 lbs (10 kg) lighter. The irony of losing it while becoming a regular at an Italian bar is simply hilarious.

Press play - a short video of the lovely staff, the great coffee and the wonderful pizza at Gusta Bar ❤️ Also some efforts to run 🤣 All these long daily walks have made me stronger and I might consider taking up running one day. But for now, it is a struggle, and I rely entirely on high-speed video and helium voice to look fast while actually almost fainting on the steepest hill 🤣 And yet, after almost three hours, ”Sheldon” still has enough energy for the 85 steps stair sprint when we get home.

Shedding the heavy machinery

During these daily walks when both Sid and I truly live Florence, I have realized a fundamental truth that applies just as much to midlife entrepreneurship as it does to our physical health: You do not build a body, or a business, by overthinking it. You build it through quiet, consistent action over time.

For years, I had been burdened under my professional life, however free it was. In the agency world, we wore our stress and our massive, complex technical setups like badges of honor. But just as my body began to shed its protective layers on those long Florentine walks, my professional life was shedding its heavy machinery.

I decided to off-board most of my clients and I simply started taking the daily steps to reconstruct my workflow. I traded the stressful agency model for a light, agile SaaS (Software as a Service) infrastructure administration, meaning I upgraded my ’90s PC skills - not as a web designer but as a midlife woman stepping into a new era of possibilities. 

I left my comfort zone of what I knew and was good at, and learned to build automated delivery systems that decoupled my income from my hours. I built the same quiet engine that runs the digital economic infrastructure of the world, only in a smaller size but with the same ability to grow.

I replaced the heavy desk with what I call my Handbag Office

Today, my entire global business is powered by an infrastructure so light, it fits inside a baby blue Italian leather handbag - just a laptop, a notebook, a phone, and a lipstick. By upgrading my ’90s PC skills and learning how to set up an administration of automated digital systems, I was able to step out of the daily hustle and into the modern knowledge economy where your systems work for you 24/7.

If you want to shed the weight of your own heavy work life and take a place at the $1 trillion table in the e-Learning market, the timing has never been better. Read "Your Seat at the Multi-Trillion-Dollar Table".

Then, when you are ready to take that first, quiet step, download my free Digital Renaissance Blueprint. It is the exact framework I used to rebuild my work life, leaving the heavy lifting to the automations so I can spend my days walking the Florentine hills on hours that fit me.

You can quietly take your first steps into these new markets for free, just you and your new Handbag Office. Your marketing model will be what is called "rejection-free", meaning those who aren't interested simply scroll past, without you ever even knowing they were there.

Here are my free guides:

1️⃣ Find your next chapter in Seven Days and get my free "But How?" toolbox for setting up your own Handbag Office here ›› Seven Days to Find Your Next Chapter →

2️⃣ Download my free The Digital Renaissance Blueprint. It is the exact framework I use to power my Handbag Office, step by step, find it here The Digital Renaissance Blueprint →

The facts* - this is us, this is now:

  • The Knowledge Economy: According to Global Market Insights, the eLearning market is projected to reach $1 trillion between 2028 and 2030 [1].

  • The Solo Travel Shift: The solo travel market is projected to hit $1.6 trillion by 2033, driven by up to 85% women investing in culture, history, and their own autonomy [2].

  • The Demographic Advantage: Startups by women over 50 are the fastest-growing group of new entrepreneurs. What's more, demographic research confirms that a 50-year-old founder has twice the success rate of a 30-year-old [3]. We are actively rewriting the rules of business later in life. Long gone are the days of our mothers and grandmothers, when midlife women were considered to be of "no use." Now we create our own companies in multiple sectors and services, and we do not have to wait for someone to eventually hire us. Our customers are each other, as we work across different sectors, as well as serving the rest of the world in the international market 24/7, simply by connecting to WiFi.

The entrance of Gusta Bar at Via Maggio in Florence.
A caffè macchiato with a heart in the milk foam at Gusta Bar on Via Maggio in Florence.
A pizza at Gusta Bar on Via Maggio in Florence.
A Tiramisù dessert at Gusta Bar on Via Maggio in Florence.
A view of Il Duomo in Florence seen from Giardino delle Rose.

Caffè Macchiato, pizza and Tiramisù at Gusta Bar in Florence. And a magical view of Il Duomo from Giardino delle Rose.


References:

[1] Global Market Insights. "Global eLearning Market to value $1 trillion by 2028." PR Newswire. https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/global-elearning-market-to-value-1-trillion-by-2028-says-global-market-insights-inc-301536990.html

[2] Grand View Research. "Solo Travel Market Size To Reach $1,624.23 Billion By 2033." Market Analysis Report. https://www.grandviewresearch.com/press-release/global-solo-travel-market

[3] Azoulay, P., Jones, B., Kim, J. D., & Miranda, J. "Research: The Average Age of a Successful Startup Founder Is 45." Harvard Business Review. https://hbr.org/2018/07/research-the-average-age-of-a-successful-startup-founder-is-45


About this blog: Midlife in Italy is a journal documenting the reality of midlife reinvention, solo seasons in Florence, and the emotional transition into an empty nester lifestyle. Through the Handbag Office philosophy, it provides stories and resources for women over 50 seeking location independence, portable digital business systems, and the freedom of automated income.


About me

Pernilla Öberg - writer and creator of Midlife in Italy, photographed a cold winter's day in Vallrun, Sweden

I'm Pernilla - a happily married empty nester sharing my solo seasons in Florence, slowly and honestly. This is where the stories live - the cafés, the walks, the work, and the quiet process of finding the next chapter. The everyday texture of solo seasons in Florence, the honest process of building something new in midlife, and the quiet tools that are making it possible. Browse by category, or begin with the Seven Days email series if you feel ready to explore your own next chapter.

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