What a Solo Season Actually Feels Like

The first morning, I woke up to bells.

Not an alarm. Not my phone. Not the sound of someone else starting their day. Just the deep, rolling toll of Giotto's Campanile making its way through the attic roof and directly into my chest.

I lay there for a moment, not entirely sure where I was. And then I remembered. I was in Florence. By choice. And there was absolutely nowhere I needed to be.

I had not planned to become someone who takes solo seasons. That was not a concept I had in my vocabulary back when toddler life was at its peak. Back then, what I quietly feared was simpler: that when they left, something in me would close with them. That midlife would arrive like a door shutting rather than one opening. I had no way of knowing what was actually waiting on the other side of those busy, beautiful years. When the children grew up and the house grew still, the door did not shut. It opened. And in that opening, I found a quiet, growing sense of something I couldn't quite name - a pull toward a version of my life that had more breathing room, more mornings woken by a bell that has been ringing since the 1300s, and fewer days spent building clients' dreams rather than my own.

In 2023, my daughter Emma arrived in Florence at twenty-three - the same age I had been, thirty years before. She was admitted to art restoration studies at Lorenzo de' Medici. I don't know if she sensed my inner whisper - we never talked about it. What she did know was that she had my heart's full support. And one day she asked if I wanted to be her roommate. With my husband's blessing, I said yes.

Mother and daughter photo collage - Pernilla in Florence 1992 and Emma in Florence 2022, both at twenty-three years old

My Emma ❤️ Florence waited thirty years for her... One day the toddler in your arms is twenty-three, standing in the same city you once loved at the same age. Behind that smile in the middle, I felt the years go by so fast. What I did not know was that she would one day ask me to be her roommate - in the same city that was once my whole life.

What followed was not a sabbatical. It was not a breakdown or a midlife crisis dressed up in a colorful summer dress. It was a solo season. And if I had to explain the difference to someone who has never had one, I would say this: a solo season is what happens when you listen to your inner whisper - not by abandoning your life, but by carving out one chapter that is written entirely by you.

My husband is in Sweden. My life there is intact, warm, and waiting. Our cabin in the arctic mountains. Our routines. Our son. The people we have built our life around. None of that disappeared when I bought a one-way ticket to Florence.

And when my husband visits, Florence does something I did not expect. It gently removes the everyday blur of a long shared life - not because the life is anything less than good, but because there is nothing here but the two of us and a city with very good ideas about how to spend an afternoon. Long marriages, it turns out, can still have new chapters. These visits are one of mine.

Pernilla and her husband walking hand in hand through Florence - a solo season that gave their long marriage a new chapter

Hand in hand in Florence ❤️

When the city is mine again, I wake to ancient bells. Sometimes I work from an old wooden desk under a sloping attic ceiling, 85 steps above the street. Sometimes I work from bed and sometimes from a café. I eat well. I think clearly. And I have, over five seasons now, built something that is entirely my own.

I walk ten kilometers after lunch on sunny days. Not only for exercise - for living. Through the narrow streets of the historic center, where the stone is worn smooth by centuries and the scent of bread and home-cooked meals comes through every open door. And then up - out of the city and into the surrounding hills, where cypress lanes climb through olive fields and the air changes and the whole of Florence appears below you, like something you invented in your dreams.

The light up there is the color of old gold. I stop for views I have seen a hundred times. I breathe in every corner of these walks - the scents, the art, the sudden glimpse of a courtyard or a fresco that someone loved many years before me. I fall into conversations, because dog owners everywhere in the world speak the same language. By the time I am back at my 85 steps, something in me has settled. I have not just been in Florence. I have fully lived it.

Florence from above - the Duomo and Arno river seen from Piazzale Michelangelo across the terracotta rooftops of the historic centre

Florence from above - a view from Piazzale Michelangelo ❤️

People ask me if it is lonely. Occasionally, yes - in the way that any quiet is lonely until you realize the quiet is the point. But mostly it is the opposite of lonely. It is the surprising realization that you are in very good company - your own.

The solo season is not for everyone. But I have come to believe it is for more women than know it yet. Women who are not unhappy, exactly, but who carry a quiet sense that something in their life has not yet been said. A chapter that keeps clearing its throat and waiting. And who sometimes carry a quiet guilt for wanting more.

If that sounds familiar - even a little - I would gently suggest that what you are feeling is not restlessness. It is readiness. And if you feel that guilt, it will fade - because it is simply the unfamiliar feeling of putting yourself first, perhaps for the first time in many years.

And it does not require Florence. It does not require Italy. It does not require a daughter with a spare room and a dog with strong opinions about carrots.

It just requires a yes.

If you are wondering what your own next chapter might look like, I have put together a free seven-day email series to help you find it. No hype, no rush - just one quiet letter a day, and a few small tools to help you hear yourself again. Seven Days to Find Your Next Chapter ››


About me

Pernilla Öberg - writer and creator of Midlife in Italy, photographed a cold winter's day in Vallrun, Sweden

I'm Pernilla - a happily married empty nester sharing my solo seasons in Florence, slowly and honestly. This is where the stories live - the cafés, the walks, the work, and the quiet process of finding the next chapter. The everyday texture of solo seasons in Florence, the honest process of building something new in midlife, and the quiet tools that are making it possible. Browse by category, or begin with the Seven Days email series if you feel ready to explore your own next chapter.

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